Maria Vazquez of Laredo, Texas, samples a grape during a tour of the San Lorenzo Hacienda, Aug. 8, 1998, just outside the northern Mexican town of Parras de la Fuente.(AP Photo/Gregory Bull)

PARRAS de la FUENTE, Mexico — Only hours from the dust-blown Texas border, this 400-year-old town seems a mirage in the heart of the Coahuila desert.

Cacti give way to lush wild grapevines, and underground streams in the Sierra Madre mountains gush to the surface: The perfect combination for the wine that flows from the oldest winery in the Americas.

Few travelers go out of their way to visit northeastern Mexico, known mostly for the factories, or ''maquiladoras,'' glaring against a wasteland of windswept sand near the U.S.-Mexico border.

But just 240 miles from Laredo, Texas, Parras de la Fuente, or ''grapevines of the fountain,'' defies change, aging like a fine wine.

Parras is a living homage to the succulent purple grape that grows wild here. Painted grapevines line the doorways of some of the 400-year-old homes along its cobblestone streets. Sculpted grapes edge the stone fountain across from the 332-year-old San Ignacio Loyola Church.

And the biggest event of the year is the crowning of the queen of the annual Grape Fair.

Residents sell homemade wine for a few dollars from their homes, but the best is found at the San Lorenzo Hacienda, also called Casa Madero. Descendants of Mexican revolutionary hero Francisco Madero, who was born here, run the winery today.

Workers no longer mash grapes with bare feet while a harpist plays, as they did 75 years ago. Today a high-tech French machine squashes the grapes and spits out the skin, stems and seeds. But that hasn't replaced the colonial charm of the former hacienda.

Free tours of the winery run daily from morning to dusk. The tours are in Spanish, but an English-speaking employee is always on hand.

Over a walkway hangs a canopy of grapes used to make wine for the town's 25 churches. On a nearby wall is a tiled mural of the Virgin of Wine. Next to the hacienda's chapel, a small store sells Casa Madero wine and brandy.

In 1568, Spanish conquistadors looking for gold, and priests on a mission to convert Mexico's indigenous people to Christianity, came to the valley of the Tlaxcaltecas.

Drawn by the wild grapes and fresh spring water, they settled 10 years later. Among them was Spanish Capt. Don Francisco de Urdiqola, who started the first vineyards in 1593 at his El Rosario Hacienda, today the town's shopping center.

A group of people tour the facilities at oldest winnery in the Americas, San Lorenzo Hacienda, near the northern Mexican town of Parras del la Fuente, Aug. 8,1998. (AP Photo/Gregory Bull)

In 1597, King Philip II issued a land grant to Don Lorenzo Garcia to start the first official winery for the New World, establishing San Lorenzo Hacienda.

But in 1699 the King of Spain, alarmed by competition from the rapidly growing winery, banned production in the Americas except by the church. The ban lasted until Mexico's independence in 1810. Don Evaristo Madero, grandfather of ex-president Madero, bought the winery in 1893.

Each year, descendants of early Tlaxcalan settlers bear torches and descend from the hills in the night and converge at the hacienda to celebrate its heritage. The colorful ceremony is part of the week-long Grape Fair in early August.

Travelers may stay at the winery and awaken to the bittersweet scent of wine. The rooms, decorated with traditional and contemporary Mexican art, surround a garden.

If You Go ... GETTING THERE: Parras is about 240 miles south of Laredo, Texas. It's an easy drive over modern highways. Continental and Aeromexico offer flights to Torreon, Coahuila, the closest city. From there, it is a comfortable 11/2-hour bus ride. Parras package tours are available through OK Tours in San Antonio, Texas, at (800) 270-0132 or (210) 222-8880. LODGING: Hotels in the center of Parras are the best deal. Hotel Posada Santa Isabel with simple, comfortable rooms set around a quiet garden runs about $20 a night. The modern Hotel Rincon del Montero, a few miles outside, is a resort with golf, tennis, swimming and horse riding and charges $44 a night for two. The Casa Madero winery charges $152 to stay at the hacienda. That includes three meals, wine and brandy. GETTING AROUND: Taxicabs, American cars from the 1960's and 70's, abound and charge about $3 to go just about anywhere. Local buses also are available. Fare is a few cents. RESTAURANTS: This is cattle country, so most local fare involves red meat and typically runs about $3 to $5. A delicious filet mignon marinated in lime juice is about $6.50. Everything can be found from hamburgers to traditional Mexican enchiladas and tacos. INFORMATION: For more information, call the helpful, English-speaking staff at the Coahuila state tourism office (52-84) 15 17-14, or 15 21-74, or Infotur (91-800)84-200. Or write to Turismo Coahuila, Blvd. Luis Echeverria Alvarez No. 1560, Edificio Torres, Piso 11, Saltillo C.P. 25286.

Paintings from the 16th century and a stone fireplace with grapevines adorn the dining room that looks onto an enormous lawn with a 400-yard stone walkway leading to a swimming pool.

Guests are served regional dishes such as machaca, a tasty dried meat served with scrambled eggs or in a spicy soup, and the award-winning San Lorenzo white wine. Another Parras specialty are sweets made of sugar, nuts and milk.

The ex-hacienda charges $166 a night per couple, which includes three meals, wine and brandy. The six hotels in Parras, a 15-minute drive, range from $5 to $40 a night. The modern Hotel Rincon del Montero, a few miles outside, is a resort with golf, tennis, swimming and horse riding and charges $44 a night for two.

The best swimming in town is at the three ponds built by the Spaniards to store the fresh spring water that surfaces here from the nearby Sierra Madre mountains. La Luz pond today is lined by palm trees and umbrella tables.

Overlooking the town is the simple 130-year-old Santa Madero Church atop the plug of an extinct volcano. The climb offers a great view of the Sierra Madre mountains rising on one side and the timeless town below where sun-toasted farmers on burros meander down the street selling cream in tin milk cans.