Tea is practically a national symbol of England, and Anglophiles everywhere will probably crook a pinkie Tuesday, Queen Elizabeth's 72nd birthday. But one needn't bustle off to Buckingham Palace for a proper cuppa; the world of tea takes in fun and fantasy as well as formality.

''The moment of play is what I love about tea,'' says Victoria MacKenzie-Childs, who with husband Richard heads the hot design team that bears their surname. Teapots have become the signature object among their whimsical wares, and the Butler's Pantry, a two-room tea shop atop their Madison Avenue store, seems part Alice in Wonderland, part mini-Versailles. A player piano makes ''a honky-tonk din in the background that gives a sense of privacy,'' says Victoria, and Koi fish swim in the washroom fountain.

Victoria has sought the solace and inspiration of tea worldwide, from her home base in New York to Hong Kong. We asked for some of her favorite sipping spots.

Tea & Sympathy, New York
This wee hideaway in Greenwich Village attracts both celebrities (designer Isaac Mizrahi, actor Gary Oldman) and civilians. They come for owner Nicola Perry's table-hopping patter, scones with clotted cream and other ''cozy, real food you'd have in anyone's private parlor in England.'' Royal family photos and tea accessories adorn the walls, and ''you sit at awkward, odd-shaped tables with all sorts of different coverings, every kind of teapot and dish, and whatever cakes they concoct that morning.''

The Ahwahnee, Yosemite National Park, Calif.
This massive slate-roofed hotel offers views of Half Dome, Glacier Point, the Royal Arches and Yosemite Falls. Afternoon tea is served in the Great Lounge, which is flanked by walk-in fireplaces with floor-to-ceiling windows. ''The service is wonderful because it isn't that 'Hi, my name is Jeff' approach. It's graceful and impersonal, and you can just meld into the atmosphere.''

Hotel Plaza Athenee, New York
Formal high tea is the ticket at this luxury hotel on the Upper East Side. The classic courses of tea sandwiches, warm scones with Devonshire cream and jam, fruit tarts and pastries are served in the hotel's Le Regence restaurant. ''It reminds me of eating inside a cake, it's so lacy and full of mirrors and French cupids. It's also quiet and forces everyone into their best behavior Ñ a wonderful thing to try out once in a while!''

Chateau Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada
Accompanied by harp music, high tea is served on summer afternoons in the lobby overlooking the Victoria Glacier and the silver-green waters of Lake Louise. ''It gives you a sense of independence and grandeur. Time is eternal, and you don't have a sense of turning tables (being rushed to leave).''

Connie's, Genoa, N.Y.
In this small village nestled among rolling hills, in the Fingers Lake region, Connie's ''is about all that's there.'' The local gathering spot is a slice of ''total Americana. You hear the heart of what's going on in this country'' from the customers, and ''Connie makes the best pies I've ever had.''

The Brown Palace, Denver
Under the stained-glass skylight in the soaring ceiling of this century-old landmark, both luncheon tea and formal afternoon tea are served in the atrium lobby, accompanied by harp and piano. ''It's a kind of Gold Rush atmosphere, in the midst of that wide-open country, but with all the comforts of Napoleon on the campaign trail, when royalty stayed in lavish tents.''

Laduree, Paris
Opened in 1862 on the prestigious Rue Royale, this classic French salon de the serves more than a dozen varieties of tea with the elegant creations of celebrated pastry chef Pierre Herme and ''the best macaroons in the world'' in 10 flavors. Its ambience is ''somewhere between the two types of places typical in Paris: the immaculately perfect and the rugged, peasant-oriented type. It's a stop you shouldn't miss and a place where you can watch people, the favorite pastime in Paris.''

Brown's Hotel, London
This historic hostelry in tony Mayfair is ''all chintz and feather-filled cushions, very cozy.'' Tea is served in the Drawing Room, where a live pianist plays, the carts are spilling over with food (''everything's the perfect temperature'') and the tea is kept flowing. MacKenzie-Childs cherishes ''the graciousness of more waiters than necessary shuffling about with tea caddies.''

The Peninsula, Hong Kong
In the renovated lobby of this 70-year-old glamour palace, afternoon tea is served on tables ''made of beautiful marble that look like abstract impressionist paintings,'' with a string quartet serenading guests from above. The renowned gathering place, decorated in colonial style, ''has a sense of space and independence.''

The Tangin Sari, Bali
This tiny, old hotel ''with a thatched roof and myna birds all around'' serves tea by the sea on marble and cast-iron tables. If it starts to rain, the staff shepherds you indoors under a paper umbrella you can keep. Mixing local and European culture, the hotel serves ''French pastries alongside rice cake wrapped in banana leaves'' with teas from ''island concoctions'' to traditional blends.

By Anne Goodfriend, USA TODAY

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